Godzilla Brakes

[desertmonkey]

I've got a 260Z 2+2 and I had to replace the brake booster and M/C because the leak took out the booster. I used a reman 280zx booster which I flipped
upsidedown to fit and a mating M/C. Now the idle is great and vacuum steady
however the pedal is hard. Both boosters were 10 inch dia. and M/C was  a
15/16 and the one way valve appears to be working. Do I need to get a unit
for a 74 and M/C for the sytem to work properly?

[desertmonkey]

Gonna yank the booster and master cylinder and readjust the rods on the inside and to the front. If the hard pedal goes away after bleeding we are
into the paint booth.

[desertmonkey]

According to my vacuum readings the engine is strong however after replacing the brake booster and M/C the pedal is hard and I have no idea where to go. I
used a reman 280Z booster flipped upside down and mating M/C.

[desertmonkey]

Now the pedal goes half way and is till hard somewhat any takers?

[Jeffrey Richard]

I had a similar issue when I first bought my car. The brake pedal had little travel and the brakes were hard to regulate as they went from no brakes to full on "throw your face into the windshield" in about 1 inch of travel.

Turned out the booster was not assembled properly. There is a little disk that can slide out of place and mine was out of place.

Hope this helps.

[desertmonkey]

Brakes work but they are noisy and the pedal is hard. Where is this disc that is inside the booster? I already adjusted the outside rod going into the M/C.
I tested the one way valve by blowing into it and it seemed good but it could be bleeding out vacuum. If you reverse the check valve the idle goes up when
you apply the brakes switch it and idle stays the same. Maybe I should get a
booster from Black Dragon and a M/C for a 74 and see what happens after I
get my exhaust manifold leak cured.