just put a new 60-1, stage 4 exhaust wheel on my 72 240zt. should this
turbo generate more power than my old turbo ( t3t4 h pattern compressor
wheel in a 50ar housing, stock t3 exhaust housing & stock wheel). if so,
how much more power. the guy i bought my old turbo said at 13lb of boost
i should be making 320-330hp to the flywheel on old turbo. the new 60-1
should produce more power than the old one, about close to 100 more
hp at 18lb of boost, if i had booth turbos at 18lb of boost. is this accurate?



Typically a t3/t4 is deigned to give you the best of both worlds, low end response as well as better top end. Only thing is the t3 turbine can only spin so fast, I would say if your new compressor is bigger then sure. The larger turbine will allow you to make big power in the higher RRRRRRRR's and especially if attatched to a good sized compressor. My t3/t4 utilizes a 60 compressor and a .63 turbine wheel, but guys running straight t4's lay more broader power accross the graph.


I made 300 at the wheels(OK, 292) at 10psi with a 110k mile junkyard engine with just a big turbo, good ic, and real tuning. 2.5 inch crush bent exhaust too!



I'll be more incline to upgrade the compressor housing rather than the compressor wheel. E is going to be more effiecient.

Personally, I would think 50 trim is going to be a better turbo for higher boost application. Also 50 flowa little bit more than 57 according to the compressor map.

78 280Z with L26ET swap in need of more fuel.
60-1/stage III




...read up on it a lot before you buy. you really need to know what youre doing and what you want to do. there are a zillion t3's and hybrids all w/different compressors and turbines on them to do different things (different ways). they also have different flanges,wastegates,bearings.
alot of those turbos are ones that guys bought (prbly off ebay) and they didnt know what they were doing..... so it doesnt work for what they had in mind....so its for sale.
i'd look and see about the different turbos people have "on their zcars" (or ask them).

mine is a t3/to4b ca, water cooled,external wastegate,stage III turbine,57 trim compressor. its for a streetable daily driver w/a 350hp target. quick spool but prbly not what you'd want for a drag car......

what people "have" also depends on their setup too. if you put the same turbo from an 11 sec zcar on your stock zcar.....you aint gonna run 11s...they have a bunch of other stuff on there too....get a plan on what you want to end up w/..."then" start the mods....(IMO) ....s



I have a T3/T4E 57 Trim.
I tried to put the turbo on in the weekends and it fits just perfectly. It's close against the motor though so I don't know if I need some spacings between the motor and the turbo or not? Does it really matter? If it could be bad for the turbo then I'll have to have a machine shop make me a 1/2 inch or 3/8 inch spacer.


You don't want the compressor housing touching the exhaust manifold. If you can fit a heat shield btw the manifold and the compressor you should be fine. But from what I've seen, The .60 A/R To4E won't clear the manifold if the turbo is clocked in the stock angle


I have a t3/04e in mine and used a 1/2 inch spacer. I then also had to take out the studs from the manifold and replace them with longer ones. This requires a LOT of heat to get them out.

If you dont use a spacer u may have to grind away some of the exhaust manifold and even then you are really too close to a serious heat source and will be very hard to put in a heat shield. Also keep in mind that the spacer will also push the turbo downpipe and piping further towards the body of the car and may cause clearance issues depending on your setup. But it can all be worked out.


You need to know if this is a "B" or an "E" compressor assembly, I don't have a map for a "67 trim" but I don't have all that many maps, a couple examples would be: TO4b-62-1 (62-1 compressor trim) this housing/wheel would flow approximately 45lbs/minute of air @ 15 p.s.i. boost (rough estimate) to make (again approximately) 450 crankshaft horsepower, and would need to see about 26 p.s.i. to reach 60lbs/minute of airflow (roughly 600 crank hp). At 3 bar (30psi boost + 1 atmosphere ambient) this compressor is off the map, and far from efficient, although again I don't have a map for a 67 trim.
I will give you my opinion, and I'm far from what I would consider an expert, but this turbo would likely make big power, as you stated in your post you would need some kind of fuel management, and an NPR intercooler would likely not handle a compressor of this type much beyond 10 or so p.s.i. without BIG pressure drop.
Others will probably disagree with me, but here's a couple more opinions, junk the stock nissan ECU immediatey and go with a stand alone (limited only by your budget, I prefer Haltech cost/performance wise) build a big time fuel system (cell, pump, lines, filters, regulator) and buy a real intercooler (1000 cfm, bar and plate, again, not cheap) and don't expect to get away with "set on kill" boost/power levels for long on a stock motor, at least not for very long.
my $.02 C



I have a tec II w/ a Garrett T04E w/ 60 trim wheel stage 5 in a .70 a/r housing compressor side and a 76 trim on turbine side w/ .69 housing and a 4" inlet turbo. According to the tuning shop the 550cc injectors I am currently running can not keep up. what I am looking for is 400whp. I have had my doubts about the shop but have nowhere else to go that can actually tune the car w/ the tecII


Ok.. My buddy with a L28 in a 280.. He dynoed at 388 RWHP with 400 Lbs FT of tourqe. This is his set up. He had stock Turbo EFI and Electronics.
He had a large turbo T3/T4 but the exhaust side was ported and had a t4 wheel put in. I think it was like a 60-1. He had the Murker 370 injectors and a hugh Bell intercooler. 3 in exhaust all the way back with a custome downpipe.He also has a 3.70 LSD. We outran a Z06 corvette pretty bad in it. IT was FAST.. Prolly in mid 11's.



sounds about like mine,from what you've said....but as yo2001 said, what really determines the turbo's characteristics are the size and type of wheels...mine is a t3(stage III)/t04b 57trim....i'm very pleased w/mine....spools fast capable of producing a lot of hp.... ............s



Major is the measurement of compressor wheel base. this might help (I didn't write it


Inducer is the compressor side/wheel. Small side (inlet) of compressor wheel. The large part of either wheel is referred to as the major.


Exducer is the exhaust side/wheel. Small side (oulet) of turbine wheel. The large part of either wheel is referred to as the major.


This refers to the housings only. Area divided by radius at any point is a constant ratio.

Wheel trims (P,Q,R...):

P trim is what is normally used on street cars. Q trim flows more exhaust and is more for heavily ported cars or Bridgeport’s. You don't want a P trim on a Bridgeport, cause after a certain boost level the turbo will actually begin to cause too much backpressure and result in a loss of power.


Clipping is the technique of cutting away some of the material on the fins of the impeller wheel of the turbocharger. In other words, to 'clip' a turbo is to make the fins in the exhaust path smaller. The cut is usually done at an angle of between 10 and 20 degrees - the bigger the angle, the more material is removed from the fins.

This may seem like a dumb thing to do, since smaller fins mean that the exhaust gases will impart less force to the turbine wheel and consequently increase turbo lag. This is true, but the benefit of clipping is found in the high RPM range of the motor. At higher RPMs, the turbo may have already surpassed the required user-set boost levels and is not contributing to engine power.

Since the impeller wheel in the exhaust stream partially blocks the exhaust gas flow (by design), it can act as a significant restriction at high RPMs, when the exhaust flow rate is highest. Clipping the turbo reduces this restriction and allows more air to flow past the turbo wheel at high RPMs, thereby improving airflow through the engine and increasing top-end response.

Dynamic, carbon seals:

Sill looking for info

How to Read Compressor Maps?

Pressure Ratio = P1/P2

P1 = Boost pressure + Atmospheric pressure
P2 = Atmospheric pressure (approx 1Bar or 14.7psi at sea level)

So with no boost P1 = P2 and the Pressure Ratio = 1
With 1Bar of boost P1 = 2Bar so PR = 2
2 Bar of boost gives PR = 3
This should you give the basic idea.

What is the difference between an "on-center" turbine housing and a "tangential" turbine housing?

The difference is the way that they mount in the engine compartment and the manner in which the exhaust is evacuated from the housing. The "on-center" uses a standard T4 inlet flange, as well as a four-bolt discharge flange. The reason that it is called on-center is just that, the housing sits right on top of the inlet flange.

The "tangential" turbine housing differs both in form and function. The housing sits off to one side, similar to that of a snail shell. The other difference is that to connect an exhaust down-pipe, a V-Band flange-and-clamp assembly must be used. This setup sometimes proves to be more convenient for race applications. The "tang" housings are 4 to 5 percent more efficient in flow. Neither the "on-center" nor "tangential" perform better than the other. The decision to use one over the other should depend completely upon the installation of the turbos in the engine compartment.

78 280Z with L26ET swap in need of more fuel.


I've got an 83 280zxt that I recently changed out my headgasket and swapped a T3/T04E into. I'm using the stock .63 exhaust housing with wheel, and I'm using a 57 trim wheel on the compressor side w/ stage one wheels. My problem is that it seems like my powerband has moved up in the rpm range beyond much useability. I don't get full boost till bout 4000 rpm (20psi) and then my car pulls hard past 6500rpm. Well, I was thinking that 6500 is getting way to far up there for a motor w/ stock internals. Am I wrong. When I shift my car seems to lag a little while before boost picks back up, and I think my car was actually faster with the stock t3 pushing 20psi (I'll know next friday when I go to the track). I even had done whats known as a "quick spool option" done to my turbo. For those that don't know what this is, they remove weight off the rotating assembly in every area possible (that doesn't effect strength) to allow it to "spool quicker" similar to how a lighter flywheel helps the car rev quicker. If anyone can help me to straighten my car out, please feel free to offer suggestions. Hell, even if it means I picked the wrong turbo, I wanna know whats going on.


Hey, I would like to hear more about the details of your setup. I have the T3/T04E 57 trim as well (not installed yet). After studying the compressor maps, the 50 trim and 57 trim looked like the best match for the L28. A slower spool up time is to be expected, and I think 20 psi at 4000 RPM is doing well. At 20 psi, your stock T3 was probably just making heat instead of power.

A compressor bypass valve would solve your loss of boost between shifts. In other works, a BOV routed back into the intake. With a T04E, you're also pushing a hell of a lot more air through the intake, so you may need to tweak the fuel system, if you haven't done so already, to realize power gains. I assume you have programmable EFI, otherwise you're on shaky ground at 20 psi.


you should have gone to the stage 3 or better the stage 5 exhaust turbine wheel with the bigger compressor. The slip ratio is all out of whack with the stock turbine wheel.
The turbo you described should be able to spool to 20psi @ 3000 rpm's
I was running a stock exhaust turbine housing with a stage 5 turbine wheel, and a TO4E 60 trim compressor. The turbo was in full boost @ 3K


well, 20psi around 3-3500 was what I was after...but it seems like it's just coming on way to late. and to sean73...I'd be on "shaky ground". But I've always liked it that way. I understand I'm pushing my luck, but if I'm not pushing it, someone else will. lol. I do have a blowoff-valve but it's vented to atmosphere...could that be the problem I'm seeing...my car gets overfueled, feels like it bogs and then when the fuel gets straightened out, it just hauls butt? by the way, thanks for the replys.


I'm running 60-1 in T04B housing and Stage III and I get boost just fine before around 3000rpm also. you might have leaky WG or something. Or with stock turbine wheel, the compressor whell you got my be too heavy to turn. (or something like that) You should least go with Stage III turbine wheel. you could also have a leaky BOV.

78 280Z with L26ET swap in need of more fuel.
60-1/stage III



I think 60 trim T3 flows like 300cfm. 32-33lb/min. 14G should be close. 16G is bigger than T3.


mitu turbo have better hot side. I think the key is to go with Garrett compressor wheel with Mitu turbine wheel


60 trim compressor and .63 turbine with Stage I turbine ( If there is a such a thing as Stage I. LOL)


small as heck, 81-83zxt had .48/.63 on comp side, had no lag issues, plenty of top end issues. good for 300hp@18psi-and a lot of wasted energy turned into heat.


It came with a Garrett T3, .68 turbine trim. Not sure of the compressor size, but wasn't very large. Good for midrange power between 6 and ~14 psi. Of course I must put the disclaimer of not taking it to the max level without intercooling. It was also oil cooled only... not until '84 300zx did they start with water cooled.


I listed the wrong size above... the turbine is .63 a/r, not .68. Anyway, when I speced out a new turbo, I wanted something that would not give much lag, and that gave good midrange power, not just all top end. I went with a T3/T04B, watercooled, stock turbine @ .63 to give similar spool time, and a .50 54 compressor trim. I'm happy with this setup, but I have yet to install my intercooler. Anyway, my goal is for 280-300 reliable/streetable hp. I went thru www.mjmturbos.com. I talked with Jaime who was very helpful.


I'm looking at upgrading the turbo on my '83 280zxt. I've talked to several turbo shops and they recomended the t3/to4e with 57 trim and then use my stock .63 exhaust housing with stage 3 wheels. My problem is I've heard I need a spacer to get clearance from the turbo and the manifolds, but how thick and where can I get one? I was told cheap turbo.com had them but they said they didn't...I forgot to ask at the other places I called. can anyone help me out?



SPD sells the flanges for a T3 and they are .5" thick. I used that specific turbo you listed and it worked rather well. Spacer is needed as the TO4E housing is larger than stock and will hit the exhaust manifold. Try to retain some sort of heat shield between the compressor housing and exhaust manifold.


.....you prbly have a t3/t04b....the "e" has a larger compressor housing....the "b" (as a rule) spools faster.....the "e" (as a rule) moves more air, more efficiently..or that's the way i think it is ..i have a "b" but had it machined to have a 57trim compressor....stage III turbine.....love it for a streetcar........s


..that's a good question about the ar of the turbine....its a stage III..not sure of the ar.......the compressor is a 57trim ........its designated T3/T04B CA.....the housing on the compressor had to be (or was) machined out to accomodate the the 57 wheel.....its not typical of a T3/T04B....they usually dont come like that....
....the T04B doesnt need a spacer it'll bolt right up.....sometimes you can get the T04E on by filing on it a little...but usually they use a 1/2" spacer....Alex is giving a good deal on the spacers....they are usually $50..... .........s



Just go with 10 blade Stage III with 50, 57, 60 trim.



I got a the exact turbo your describing. A Turbonetics T3/T04E BB turbo, but its on my Eclipse though. Its a good turbo lots of topend. One my engine it gets full spool at 3k but since the L28 gots lots of torque it should have better spool up. If you have a lot of money you could get the BB one but to me it looks like a waste of money I don't really see the difference. And yes this turbo will spool at 20 PSI no problem, crap I spiked to 20 one night and man it felt good haha. The turbo is supposedly good for up to 400+ HP!



im going with eather a stage 5 turbonetics 60-1 hifi or a 60-1 hifi ball bearing.
not shure yet havent decided yet.
go with a 63 ar and you should be allright on the spool time vs max boost and top end.
if you need on give me a call.
i can get new ones depending on what size turbo you go with for under $900



alrite.. first thing.. 3 inch downpipe back exhaust, mandrel bent with a high flow muffler like magnaflow or dynomax
cold air intake
custom intercooler.. something from NPR or a custom made from spearco is really nice...
take boost upto 12lbs, add more injectors, take it upto 14-16lbs
put a t3/t4 turbo on there.. maybe lie a .50 trim
boost that at like 12 psi..
add engine management, such as wolf3d ems.. add wideband 02 sensor, metal head gasket,.. monitor your afr with the o2 sensor and if you can add more boost :)

and then when you have enough money, rebuild the motor with strong pistons/rods and stuff.. or get one made from rebello or precision engines... then boost even more, with more fuel and maybe an even bigger intercooler...



A T3/T4 hybrid turbo is the common choice. The T04E compressor is the most efficient. Choose a trim level that matches your boost level and engine output. In other words, learn how to read a compressor map.



if you want to save $$ and get the biggest bang for the buck. get the t3/4 because it can bolt right in plus has better street response (thats if you have ur stock t3 modded out). now for your intercooler, get an NPR one or one custom made.. this is one thing u dont wanna go cheap on. after that, for your ecu. if u want to save money just plug in the 300zxT ecu in place.. or find someone to reprogram ur stock ecu... and have a LOT of fuel.. so have like 2 more secondary injectors... good luck. im about to drop my 82zxT motor in a 240.. just have to get a couple of grand. but im going all out, so ill end up spending 15k or so before i can say i have a good car.. good luck



I guess it all depends on what you want to do with the car. You will need to do spend a little time on the stock manifold if your planning on using a T4 turbine... its a little bigger than the T3. The T3/T04E or T04B turbo's are going for about $700 so this is where its up to you to decide on price verses function relating to the T3 or T4 turbine. prabal34 is right about the intercoolers, the NPR units seem to go for $200-$250 on ebay and appear to be a good match with the hybrids most Z turbo's are running. I dont have personal experience with aftermarket EFI but when i get to the stage I'll need one, i'll be going with SDS. I cant help you with the tranny question either.


low 13's and 11's are a world apart. A 13 second street turbo 240 should be easy to do. Install the engine just the way it is (T3, intercooler, stock ECU) then turn up the boost to 12 psi and up your fuel pressure (+10 psi) with a raising rate fuel pressure regulator. Add a 3.90 gear, 81-83 NA 5 spd, and a 2+2 flywheel and clutch assembly. Then see what the car runs. If you need more HP then install a t3/t4 and add a few more psi of boost and fuel pressure. That should do it. But first install the engine and get it working because that is a big job. Go up in power once you have determined how much more you need. Maybe the stock T3 with a little more boost and a intercooler is all you will need. If you want to do it very cheap, then use your stock 240 trans and diff but change to a 2+2 clutch. Turbos like low numeric gears, try it out. good luck.



The hybrid is a good compromise choice in that being a hybrid it uses the stock turbine section, which naturally bolts up to your manifold/exhaust no problem. Of course you could change the turbine trim when you spec it out which lets you determine the usable boost range for the turbo (larger a/r allows higher hp but at slower spool, lower a/r allows fast spool but limited top end). I've heard issues running a T04E compressor housing in that it touches or may have clearance problems on the intake manifold. The T04B is supposed to be a better fit since it's slightly smaller. But that's where the beauty lies, the compressor is of a T4 trim and therefore able to flow more air with better heat efficiency. You can get away without intercooler yet yeild more power because of this fact, but to get the high hp goals you're aiming for you will want to do several modifications. Larger exhaust, better intake (ie, K&N), intercooler, and more fuel at the higer boost. You can get a rising rate FPR and higher pressure fuel pump to accomplish this, but this still may only yeild 280-300 hp from the stock injectors. This is where larger injectors and programmable fuel systems come into play. The turbo is the building block, its up to you where and how far you want to go.


Yes you can make 350hp+ yes it will bolt up to the manifold not a 100% bolt on because when you change the compressor housing modifications need to be done the the wastgate actuator and inlet tube from the AFM. The mods are not major but its not a true "bolt on" deal nothing ever is thats why its called customizing. I can put together a T3T4B that is 100% bolt on and works real good with a stock fuel system and best of all its cheap! About $500.00 with a rebuildable core.



9.5:1 compression motor is not going to handle hybrid turbo. I guess you are going to built you anothe motor. T04E housing will not clear the manifold without a spacer. but anything from .50.57.60 would be a good trim. .63 stage III would be what you want for exhaust turbine.


That is a pretty large turbo. The large .83 A/R will not get full spool under 4K on a stock 2.8, and the T04E compressor you got is of the larger variety of hybrid turbos. It WILL flow a ton of air and provided your intercooler piping is held together securely and the IC itself will flow a lot of air you'll scream on the top end. I opted for a T04B .50 54 trim with stock T3 .63 A/R turbine. It should be good for at ~300bhp if I get everything else right.



I don't know what you want your turbo car to do so it's hard for me to deside but I was think .60 T04E housing with .50 trim with .63 stage III housing for my turbo motor. .48 housing is going to be too small for L28. .60 trim would rock for topend but I think on the street, it'll be pain to drive everyday. I was also talking to turbo mechanic and he said the .50 trim is more effecient design than .57 and .60 because .50 trim is taller.


Hey guys, I'll tell ya I get this question every day two or three times at least and the way I answer every time is, what size injector are you running? You can put a 60-1 on and if your not flowing some big time fuel your not makin any kinda power. I always recomend a TO4B for the compressor side on stock fuel injection systems and if you know what your doing and how to push the fuel system I would do the E. As for the exhaust side when things are right and you can sqweez the fuel system on a TO4E then a stageIII exhaust wheel would be warrented, because you are flowing lots on the compressor side the added exhaust flow from the upgraded wheel will help greatly, youll feel a difference. I ran the T3/T4E stageIII on my car for a while with stock injectors and it ran like I think the term is called a "rapped ape", but that was pushing the fuel system with a Haltec fuel computer pushing the injector time big time. If you cant do this or if you don't think about doing other upgrades to the fuel system (FMU, additional injector, etc.) don't worrie about putting a major turbo upgrade, your gonna hit a brick wall if you think its gonna give you major power just by bolting up the turbo. Same goes for you Zmonster stock fuel injection and a cam OK stock injection a cam on boost ahh keep me posted I want to see how your gonna pull that off. Well guys thats my two cents on turbo sizing ahh I know a guy that does kick ass turbo upgrades and he always answers the phone for the tec questions, his number is down below.


Boost pressure is up to you Gravy, but no more than 12psi without an intercooler and no more than 15 without a new/stronger head gasket. No more than 18 without prepping the bottom end. I think #30 is the limit on the t3/t4 hybrids though. At least those are my guesstimates, please correct me if wrong.

Great turbo for the f54 however, quick spool up with a minimum of lag. PE, can I get that with water cooled in exchange for my stock turbo and how much? what trim level?


I read all of these replies and a few make sense, talking only about turbo performace not any other area. A stock T3 will make its max CFM about 300 at 18psi. The gain in performance by upgrading the compressor wheel and housing to a T4 will be that you can achive more CFM at less boost. That is what counts CFM, you can spin a T3 to 25psi but all you are doing is moving hot air and you will have thrust bearing failure at that much boost. That is why ballbearing is better in a hi boost application. They have a higher resistance to thrust failure, but they are zero tollerence turbos wich means any kinda contamination or the least bit of expansion and LOCK, your out 1300 bucks. So you can send your turbo to be upgraded and it will be a mostly bolt on deal just a few modifications to the inlet tube for about $600.00 depending on the condition of your core and what combination of wheels and housings you would like. Or upgrade your fuel system and up the boost on your stock T3 to get the most out of it. Either way...good luck


Turbo in question is T04B with .60 A/R & 1.15 turbine "P" trim tang divided housing and I think externally gated.

If I go T4 is this a good choice? New for $350 is not bad

If you are going to run a P-trim you will never spool that turbo with a 1.15 a/r on the turbine side. I would run a .58 a/r and no bigger for your application.


If all you want is to run 12psi daily & peak out at 17psi on occasion a good stock engine will get you there. A metal head gasket is good insuarance but if your fuel & timing is correct a Nissan HG with turbo bolts will work fine. Get a good programable fuel system (SDS,Electromotive,etc.) a t3/t4 hybrid(many choices & trims there),Spearco IC,larger injectors,and a good straight through exhaust. This could run around $2,500 +or- and you'll be in the deep 12 second range in the 1/4mi. with room for future growth and most importantly it will be reliable.


I ran a T3/4 with a V trim compressor and the stock .63 turbine. It worked great on the street(L28) but the A/R - wheel combo is smaller than necassary. On a road coarse at 4000 rpm I would go from 2-5 psi to 15 psi with the smallest amout of pedal, making the car almost undrivable coming off a corner. I went with a T4 turbine .69 A/R and O trim wheel and am much happier with the drivability and full boost power. I thought about clipping the wheel, but used T4 stuff is cheap so went that route. I'm never below 3500 rpm so I couldn't tell you when it starts making boost but at the rpms the motor need to make power I always spool it up. You don't need a turbo to produce full boost by 2500 rpm, unless it's a diesel. On a side note if you compare the turbine wheel from a ZX T3 and a Grand National wheel the difference is HUGE. It's larger and much less restrictive, looks like it's been clipped alot and then some. I'm running this with a .63 A/R and stock H trim comp. on a Toyota 3.0 v6(3vze) and can make full boost(11psi) by 3200, boost starts at 1800rpm. The less back pressure the better.



I don't know the spec of the T3, but the best T3 seems to run out of breath at 13-15 psi - they are down to 65% efficiency given the L28ETs displacement and volumetric efficiency. To improve it, have a T4 compressor installed - like a TO4E (any trim will work better, I hear good things about the 50 trim and the 57 trim).



The turbo I am using is a T04/T3 with "T" trim wheels, stock sized on the exhaust side, and 34mm on the blower side. the blower side has a .62 A/R. It does spool up fairly slow,(full boost by 4200), but it pulls hard all the way to redline.


I have been using a T3/TO4B with Super V compressor trim. It spools like stock, and has 73% efficiency to a pressure ratio of 2.5 with the stock L28ET displacement. It has no clearance issues to the intake, and I can use Scottie-GNZ's stainless downpipe.



I have a Buick GN compressor mounted on the stock turbine section with a clipped wheel. The GN turbo is technically a T3 but it's much bigger than the L28 T3 and the compressor map closely matches a T04B. Fast spool and good efficiency to near 20psi.


i have a to4e comp with .5 ar and t3 exhaust with .63 ar and 11 degree clip from tubo house it it rocks comes on at 3k and keeps on breaks my 235s loose at 45 mph


More boost, without more heat. Your best bet is to adventually go to a turbo that is designed to work at higher boost. The stock turbo is no good after 15psi because it builds way to much heat. I first put a H3 cold side on my car. It was designed for a Ford turbo truck engine. As with most truck designs, it was built for torque. It was a big difference over stock. This turbo made 390hp and 460 torque on my brothers 300. Next I went to a 57 trim wheel, with a hot side upgrade. Although this turbo wasn't dynoed, it added 7mph to my brothers 1/4 mile trap speed. (these turbos were on his car then were passed down to me!) As for gearing, I'm running a 3.55 right now. It actually helps with traction as boost doesn't hit to hard. I also need it to be able to run in 4th gear for the 1/4 mile. A 3.70 gear and I have to run into 5th. If your looking for only a small boost, go with a small upgrade on the cold side with a little more boost. The larger turbo will give you some lag. I don't mind the lag because it doesn't break parts as easily. Besides, most V8, and V10 will take me off the line, but once the boost and methanol kick in I can run down almost anyone.



Hey ratedz, I am running the t3/t4 hybrid on my car. I just rode in a stock 83zxt a few weekends ago and i was really surprised at the difference. It was running stock boost and in a zxt, but it wasnt anything to smile about. I am running 8 psi w/o an intercooler (not for long) and little bolt ons in my 77 280z. My car feels completely different. I dont know if it is because of the hybrid or weight difference or boost level but Kevin @ majestic said my turbo would max out at around 25 psi. I didn't do the conversion but the only thing that was done was a spacer was made for the turbo, pretty simple stuff. here's the specs on my turbo:

T3/T04E hybrid turbo w/a water cooled center section. the first time i had it built, kevin at majestic in waco, tweaked it with "T" trim wheels, stock sized on the exhaust side, and 34mm on the blower side. the blower side had/has either a .60 or .62 A/R. now housing a 32mm wheel. kevin also installed a 12deg clipped wheel on the exhaust side, so now it spools up much faster and pours on the torque from very early on, say around 2800 rpm as opposed to 3400-3600 before.

Don't ask me what those numbers mean, im just relaying the info that i have on the spec sheet the guy gave me when i bought it. I am buying an intercooler from a delivery truck similar to an npr, and is about the same size as one. Hopefully the flow numbers are as good. Once i get that in i will tell you how my baby flys. Take it easy


My hybrid T03/T04 turbo bolted right up because it has the stock exhaust housing. The compressor side was quite a bit bigger, but all I had to do was shorten the pipe that goes to the throttle body and trim the rubber boot back on the inlet side to before it necks down. Works well enough.


I just got done doing this mod on my car. I got the unit from Jim Wolf as part of their upgrade (sport450) I felt I needed to do some work in the waste gate actuator and made a mounting bracket for it. They provided a bracket, but it was cheezy and I was not happy with it. I also got the T3 spacer that Turbonetics sells because the other guys are correct, the compressor is to close to the exhaust manifold. The heat transfer would be about 90-95% that close to a cast iron part. (ever put a peice of metal close to a cast wood stove?? that stuff really radiates heat @ close proxcimity) I got a sheet of Copper to make new gaskets, as the stock gasket os to small for the plate and I opened up the turbo inlet and the exhaust manifold outlet. I had to go with longer studs also. I made a set out of stainless steel 55mm or so long and used flange nuts. With the spacer plate you will have about 1/4 inch away from the exhaust manifold. I also decided to build a heat shield out of aluminum and that turned out good. The compressor output did fit in the same place as the stock unit would (thank you very much for small favors) and that is about it. Also I am using the stock waste gate on my unit. I did not want to go with a racegate @ this time. I will install one if I cant get the results I want with the stock gate.



I'm in the middle of building a turbo motor that I hope will make a real 400hp with the possibility of 450-500hp if I really crank up the boost. One of the concerns I have is that the turbo that was supplied for this is a t3/t4 hybrid (H trim, .82) that only has a 2.5" exhaust outlet. Can that turbo housing flow enough air out for that kind of power level? What kind of turbos/power levels are you guys running?
Thanks, Nathan.

Where did you get the turbo??? The .82 trim, is that on the exhaust side turbine??? That is a good trim for the power you are looking for, but you are correct, it will limit you on the power. You can modify the housing to do what you want it to do. Jim Wolf takes a stock housing and opens it up to take the bigger exhaust wheel and then you need to open up the down pipe(stock downpipe) and according to Jim the turbo is capale of 450Hp at the flywheel I believe. You can give him a call at (619) 442-0680 and speak to Clark.
I would be interested in learning about the .82 A/R on your exhaust housing, because that is what I am looking for.


Author: 240Z Turbo (---.eng.fsu.edu)
Date:   Aug 31, 1999 11:16am

Well, did some more driving today and cranked up the boost to 14psi. Before, I had run 12psi for about 2 seconds only to feel the acceleration. Because I didn't want to be too hard on the motor, I didn't get there using full throttle. So today, I changed the boost to 14 psi and hit full throttle in second gear. The acceleration on the car is just sick! This turbo is so much more powerful than my last. The engine sounded pretty damn violent and the car just lunges forward like rocket. You really have to feel it to believe it. I think it is the combination of bigger turbo, bigger exhaust valves, 8.5:1 compression, bigger cam, bigger TB and the P-90 head. The funny part is that I only boosted for about 2-3 seconds, I wonder what will happen when I make a full run. This car will definetly be in the mid 11's atleast. I am so pumped about my car, and I am very happy with the spoolup of the 60-1, even though I am running the big P-trim. Well, all out tuning and boost will start Thursday. I should have enough miles on the motor to see what it can do. I should be able to run between 17-18psi w/93 octane gas. Well, thats my story and I'm stickin to it. On the down side, on my last boost I blew off the intercooler pipe from the turbo. I ordered a slightly smaller clamp so that I can bolt it down a little more tight. Later!



Author: zafraynn (---.tm.net.my)
Date:   Aug 31, 1999 7:17pm

Hi there, Running 14psi is considered running low boost for my motor. I have a L28 motor on my 75 Z which has been restroked to 3.1 litre using Motorsport Auto Big Bore Kit. Compression has been lowered to 8.3 using 2mm Thrust Metal head gasket.. Turbine/compressor are T3/T04 stage 5. Engine management by LINKS Programmable. Boost controller by BLITZ . Air to Air Intercooler. Boost/retard by HKS EGC cockpit control. I'm running 20psi boost. The beast is pumping out 500bhp. And my Z is also street driven. E-Mail me to find out more if you are interested in bringing up your motor to this kind of horsepower. Good day.